Himeji-jo

We traveled by train to the samurai castle of Himeji-jo during our winter vacation. This year we are trying to visit new places and revisit some favorites from last year.

Last year, we saw the inside of the castle and climbed all the way to the top floor on the ancient floor boards and steep stairs. On this visit we arrived early at the castle, but were so busy that we never made it inside. We did end up walking around the entire castle. We were able to see the wide moats and great walls. What was once a military fortification is now a park that many tourists and locals visit everyday. We saw elderly people strolling, fathers and their children jogging, kids playing at the climbing structure, and countless cherry trees.



We never made it inside the castle itself this year because the local history museum was so great. The kids enjoyed the dress up and traditional games room. They were able to try Kabuki masks, spinning tops. marble mazes, and other Japanese traditional toys.





















The museum also had
exhibits displaying Japanese toys and household goods from the last 150 years. The older toys were wood and metal figures with large metal springs that could dance when you turned a crank. They just did that one dance but children were able to watch it again and again back in those days.



In the 20th Century section, there were planes and cars that would zoom across the floor when the key on the back was turned. There were dress up dolls with traditional and western clothing.



The household items were more interesting for K and I. The TVs with tiny screens and huge boxes, the 4 inch wide heating coil for boiling a tiny pot of water, and a clothes washing machine with a ringer roller attachment. The items were so different from today's household appliances that E wasn't able to identify very many of them correctly. Somehow he did recognize the iron, although how he knew that one growing up in our house is anybody's guess. Maybe from using one to seal wax paper around fall leaves...

Arashiyama

Ararshiyama is a small town on the western edge of Kyoto that is surrounded by forests and tucked into a crook in the Katsura River. We traveled to this beautiful little spot by train on a wintry day in late December. When we arrived at the little train station we walked out to see mist crawling through the forested mountains. The many maple and cherry trees on the mountainsides were bare and stood out amongst the evergreens and more tightfisted leafing trees. To get to the town we walked across a small bridge onto a little sandbar island. We made our way across this island, happy to stretch our legs and move in the cool air. M and S played follow the leader. The wide shallow river had many little islands and grassy sandbars. There were herons, egrets, and mandarin ducks feeding. It was so beautiful and wide open.

We crossed the Tegetsu-kyo Bridge and entered the town. The town itself is old and is layed out inside the elbow on the flat eastern shore of the river. On the outside of the river's bend, on the western shore, mountains rise up steeply, straight from the water's edge. As we crossed the Katsura and stood on the eastern shore, I kept watching the mist climb up and crawl along the mountains. A bit of Vermont danced in my memory.

It was mid-day and K had spotted a restaurant overlooking the river while I was mooning at the misty mountains. We walked along the river's edge and found an old riverside house that had been converted into a traditional soba house. Soba is buckwheat, a very popular grain here in Japan. We entered through an old wooden gate into a courtyard. Leaving our shoes at the entrance, we went upstairs and were shown a private little room with a low table and a sunken floor closed off from the rest by sliding screens . The tatami mats and simple wooden walls and screens were serene. We enjoyed a feast of soba tea, daikon salad, hot and cold soba noodles, tempura, soba porridge, soba dumplings, and some soba ice cream for dessert. Rice is not served at soba houses, but E and S are more than happy with plates heaped with cold soba noodles. They even sprinkle on the scallions these days! Despite all the soba dishes, at no point did the soba seem overdone. Each dish had a different temperature, flavor, or texture. The Japanese have invented many different foods to make from this grain that is not really a grain. It was a great meal that warmed us on this chilly December day. The special little room, the view of the mountains across the river, the red pine with gnarly pruned branches outside the window, the happy eaters all made it a special meal to remember.

We then walked northwards along the riverbank. Arashiyama can be packed with visitors during the fall foliage and spring cherry seasons. We enjoyed the empty quiet of the low season. We walked and ran among the non-existent crowds along the river. M saw a flock of white birds take off from the water and seem to magically double their number when their reflection appeared just as they emerged from the water. They balleted back and forth and around in front of their mountain backdrop. The mandarin ducks dabbled, furiously paddling to keep their heads down.

We climbed the wide wet steps up to a park and hiked up a hill to bamboo forest. The sun had come out and the afternoon was light. The bamboo grew thickly. Just a few feet in from the edge of the path it became quite dark. None of the bamboo were thicker than a man's leg, but there were so many, so close together that it would be difficult to pass through without a cut path. The forest was a deep green and oh so quiet when we weren't talking or stomping.

We hiked down through the forests past some temples and on to the train station. We found seats and took the train back to Kobe through Kyoto Station carrying the peace of Arashiyama in the winter with us among the monochromatic crowds of tired salary men and housewives heading home for dinner on the train.

Okayama

We zipped into Okayama on Shinkansen. The ride fast and fun as usual. We barely had time to eat our snack! Janet noticed how the conductors and snack cart ladies all bowed to the passengers as they entered and left each car. On the ride we passes through many tunnels. When the train entered a tunnel, we could feel the windows get pushed in a bit if our hands were on them to feel the effect.

The city of Okayama honors the Japanese folk hero, Momotaro. Briefly, Momotaro is the long wished for son of an old man and woman. He is found in the pit of a peach (momo in Japanese) nevers grows higher than a few inches but goes on great adventures with his companions, a pheasant, a dog, and monkey. Throughout Okayama's downtown district, there are occasional statues, manhole covers, and restaurants honoring Momotaro.

Our first morning in town, we visited the samurai castle of Okayama jo. It is a rebuilt castle that stands high on a bank in a bend in the Asahi River. The river made a substantial moat on one side of the castle. On the other side, remnants of the moat and outer walls could be found here and there in the downtown district. Finding an old gate or seeing a section of wall down an alley is a fun scavenger hunt. In the castle, we took the elevator up to the top. We looked out the window and saw the golden dolphins that protect the castle from fire. The five floors of the museum were devoted to honoring the samurai family that lived there and ruled Okayama for hundreds of years.

Okayama-jo is nicknamed the Black Heron. It is said that its black color was a response to the building of the famous White Egret castle of Himeji-jo.

Riding in the lord's palanquin.








In the distance, behind the golden dolphin, lies Korakuen. Korakuen was once the lord samurai's private garden. It is now a public garden, said to be one of the most beautiful in all of Japan. It is very beautiful and relaxing indeed. Korakuen has large expanses of grass, larger than any we've seen in Japan. In th efront areas of the park, there were small gates that prevented people from going onto the grass. However, deep in the back part, there were no gates. We were hesitant to go on the grass, biut once we saw a Japanese school group having snack there, we sat beneatha cherry tree and picnicked. After eating,the Japanese school children began to play. E, S, and M joined in and it was a wild game of chase and tag. It was loud and crazy, but no one seemed to mind. Perhaps because it was all happening in a relatively far off section of the park.

The park's signature feature is a little hill overlooking a pond. The pond has an island in it and on the island is a tea house. M and K went in for green tea and Japanese sweets amid the calm water sof the pond. In the tea house they enjoyed the peace and quiet.

























Meanwhile the rest of us explored the park. Janet and I walked about on the paths. S and E ran and ran and ran. Every once in a while I would catch sight of one of them as a blur between some trees.

The park was such a pleasant place for all of us. After traveling about so much, it was so good to be free to move or not move on our own.

Everything in the park is made, planted, and tended by people. The hill and pond are artificial. The trees and flowers are all planned and planted to provide a certain mood or effect. Trees are continually pruned and and made to grow certain ways. The whole idea of beauty is one of nature adapted by people.

I Can't Read, Living Illiterately

Last week I had to take E to the doctor to check for an ear infection. We couldn't go to the local doctor or hospital here on Rokko Island because only a specialist can diagnose an ear infection in Japan. With the names of two specialists, Dr. Tabuchi and Dr. Yamaoka, and some directions to their offices in hand, E, S, and I road on the Rokko Liner monorail across the harbor into the city. Once we arrived in the city, we walked out of the station and began to follow the directions to Dr. Tabuchi's office. We needed directions because in Japan most streets do not have names and building numbers are often out of order. As a result, instead of just giving an address, people often draw a map or give detailed directions using landmarks. Also, if you type in the address, most Japanese cell phones will display a map detailing the route and nearby landmarks.

The three of us walked towards Dr. Tabuchi's office. It was a nice sunny day and the boys, despite being sick, were in good spirits and had some energy. As we were told to do, we followed along the front of the supermarket, crossed the parking lot, and could not see anything that looked like a doctor's office. We wandered a little this way and that looking around. At one corner where I saw people walking, I saw some signs and stores. Because he can read Japanese much better than I can, I asked S if he could see anything that said "Tabuchi". He scanned around and found it! I often have to ask M or S to read for me, just like immigrants to the US have to bring their children along as translators and sign readers when they go to a doctor or the bank.

Dr. Tabuchi's office was filled with about twenty children and their mothers all coughing, wheezing, and sneezing. The waiting room was about 95 degrees and the wait was an hour or two. Most doctor's offices operate on a drop-in, triage system rather than specific time appointments. We decided to look for Dr. Yamaoka's office. If E didn't already have an ear infection, I thought he, S, and I certainly would get ones waiting there for Dr. Tabuchi.

Kobe is bordered by a mountain across the entire north side of the city and the ocean across the entire south side. In Japanese mountain is yama and ocean is umi. The geopraphy makes it easy to keep oriented. All you have to is look up and you'll know N, S, E, and W.

Following our directions and sighting some key landmarks, we headed west a couple of blocks until we arrived just across the street from where Dr. Yamaoka's third floor office was supposed to be located. At the crosswalk, I pointed to the building and asked a man if Dr. Yamaoka's office was there. Again, not being able to read very well is real problem when trying to find places. The man looked at me quizzically, paused, and then smiled as he began to understand. "Ah," he said. "Yama kochiro, umi kochira." Translation: "The mountain is this way. The ocean is that way." The man had confused or misheard my request for Dr. Yamaoka with yama. We thanked him for his kind help and crossed the street.

At the building, I searched the directory for the kanji character for mountain that I know, but couldn't find it amongst all the print. I began to enter the first floor office to inquire, when S called out, "Dad, I found it!" Ssaved the day again. We never would have made it without him.

In the end, E did have an ear infection. Dr. Yamaoka was great. We picked up the antibiotic powder in the pharmacy across the hall from his office. Then we stopped at Mr. Donut for a snack before heading back home on the Rokko Liner.

Miyajima







This fall Ms. Lee came to Japan to visit our family and travel with us in Japan. We were so happy to see her after such a long time. We traveled with Ms. Lee on the Shinkansen to Miyajima. Miyajima is ancient shrine in the far west of Japan near the city of Hiroshima. The shrine is on an island. The entire island is considered sacred ground so the shrine gate (or torii) to enter the island stands in the bay. In ancient times, all who entered Miyajima, had to do so through the torii. At high tide the gate seems to be floating on the water. At low tide, we could see that it was actually set on the ground. The pavilions and walkways of the shrine stand above the tidal waters at high tide. A low tide you can see the grassy floor of the bay beneath them. The sacred deer of Miyajima walk around amongst all of the visitors. At low tide, they walk out and eat the grassy seaweed on the floor of the bay.